Dress Code: How Clothing Helps Manage People
What is power dressing? How does the appearance of politicians and businessmen help or prevent them from achieving what they want? And why is it important to remember that style and image, and reputation are not the same thing?. Here are the Main Points of Alena Doletskaya in her Speech to Skolkovo Business School.
Clothes for Power
The term “power dressing” is often translated into Russian as “clothes for power”, which, you see, does not quite accurately reflect the meaning. It would be more correct to say “dress code of power”.
This term originated in the 1970s in the United States. It was a decade of hippies when everyone rejoiced and relaxed after the no less unbridled 1960s.
Then a book was published by the famous American image maker John T. Molloy entitled “Dress for success”, that is, “Clothing for success.” She became a real bestseller.
John Molloy declared that the time has come when women should pursue a career because they are smart, talented and serious, which means they must look different.
His main sentence: “Forget about dresses with floral prints, peasant sundresses, platform shoes and colorful sweaters. All these flowers are for losers and the middle class. Only monochrome: gray skirt, light blouse and stockings of flesh-colored. ”
He spoke rather harshly, but indeed, the women went to work, gradually began to occupy leadership positions, began to think about how to dress, so that they were taken seriously. And the fashion world immediately caught their mood.
“Fashion is a separate industry,” you say. – I have a canned food factory. What is the connection between him and fashion? ” So: fashion takes a unique place in the culture of any nation. She may not be interested, but ignoring her is almost impossible.
A Woman Must Remain feminine
In response to women’s requests, Giorgio Armani in the 1980s offered them loose-fitting business suits to make them feel relaxed and confident.
In parallel with him, Gilles Sander appears, who creates minimalistic things from the amazing quality of fabrics, promoting a rather androgynous style. “This, of course, is like men’s suits,” she hints.
In the 1990s, designer Donna Karan said: “Yes, let the woman work, let her fly up the social ladder, but she must be feminine.”
She ordered a huge advertising campaign for her collection to photographer Peter Lindbergh.
The images showed how a beautiful woman in a business suit becomes the president of the United States. At that time no one thought about it, did not dream or even talk.
And these images were in all glossy magazines, on all billboards in New York, Chicago and San Francisco. It was a very smart and subtle step. And all women, regardless of profession, wanted to dress the same.
In fact, clothing for success means more than it might seem. I will give two stories as an example.
Remember Margaret Thatcher. On the Internet you can find a photo of how she looked in her youth, before her political career. Floral dresses, blouses with a neckline, frivolous hats … At the same time, Thatcher was a very smart, very prudent and brilliantly educated person. She tightly controlled her clothing style. She abandoned the chiffon blouse in colors in order to influence a specific audience.
Throughout her career, she has not made a single fashionable mistake: always a monochrome suit, a pearl brooch or pearl earrings. Nothing extra. Dress differently, would she get the title of Iron Lady? I don’t think so.
Reputable People Must Be Careful While Choosing Designer items
The second example is Hillary Clinton. Also a brilliant lawyer, also very educated.
A husband without her would be very ill. When Hillary started participating in the presidential race, the audience’s attention to her became very tough and not always friendly.
Once the newspapers came out with her photo on the front pages, where, as the journalists found out, she was in a tweed suit of the Giorgio Armani fashion house.
The press immediately calculated: since she had a non-standard size, the suit was sewn to order, which means she lowered $ 30,000. “And what, such a president we will have ?!” – shouted opponents.
This is an important and difficult moment. People who fall into a public field need to be extremely careful and careful when choosing designer items.
By the way, in men, the style of clothing is also very important.
He is quickly remembered. And given the small set of things that a man in general can wear, they easily catch on a mistake. For men, the requirements are always higher and tougher.